Must-have Fashion trend: Sring/Summer 2014 Jewelry
Must-have Fashion trend: Sring/Summer 2014 Jewelry

 

 

With the signs of the zodiac at Valentino, Delfina Delettrez' first pieces for Fendi and magnetic piercings at Givenchy, stay ahead with our round-up of the jewelry trends that caught our eye on the runways of New York, London, Milan and Paris, at Spring/Summer 2014.

 

Written by Janos Molnar

 

 

 

Signs of the Zodiac at Valentino

 

Since 2008, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccoli, the design duo behind Valentino, have had the label's dedicated following in raptures with their choices of fine fabrics, use of lace and the absolute elegance of those floor-grazing gowns that skim the wearer's figure just-so. For Spring/Summer 2014, ethnic embroidery in turquoise and coral replaced brocade and suede fringed tunics, good-girl black dresses. In terms of jewelry, Fall/Winter 2014's girls with pearl earrings were looking to the stars with zodiac pendants worn doubled around the neck or wrist. The most desirable and interesting talismans we've seen for a while.

Delfina Delettrez’s talisman jewels at Fendi

 

While Delettrez herself has become a fixture on the Fendi front row, often appearing at the label’s shows with one of her brooches pinned to her lapel, her influence has also come to be felt on the Fendi runway itself. This year marks a first for Silvia Fendi, accessories director at Fendi and inheritor of the Fendi family business, and Creative Director Karl Lagerfeld, as the pair have opted to bring the designer on board to design the jewelry for the house’s Spring/ Summer 2014 ready-to-wear collection. The result was a slew of looks boasting all the finesse and detail that have long characterized Delettrez’s own brand. Think crystal embellishments, touches of fur and a special nod to the Fendi house DNA in the shape of talisman design jewelry. And what could be better for a house that since its founding in 1925 has respected family ties?

Trompe-l'oeil pearls at Chanel

 

Under the glass ceiling of Paris' Grand Palais, time is merely an illusion. Chanel's signature motifs, including the classic No.5 bottle, elegant pearls and the timeless logo itself, had been deconstructed by Karl Lagerfeld himself to create the stunning works of art lining the walls. As the celebrated scent breathed life into a life-sized robot based on No.5, on the runway giant pearls morphed into a necklace, casually worn headphone-style around the neck, like an audio guide explaining the creative director's vision for Spring/Summer 2014 to the girls as they walked through Chanel's imaginary contemporary art gallery.

Magnetic piercings at Givenchy

 

After sending the girls out with horn earrings over the past few seasons, Givenchy creative director Riccard Tisci took over the whole ear for Spring/Summer 2014, clipping a collection of Swarovski colored crystal earrings along the helix and cartilage, in a new form of tribal jewelry to set off his oh-so-desirable drape dresses.

Warrior cuffs at Alexander McQueen

 

For Spring/Summer 2014, Sarah Burton, Creative Director at Alexander McQueen sent ranks of stylish Athenian warriors down the runway. The collection, which aptly showed at Paris’ Republican Guard drew from a line-up of tried-and-true global sartorial symbols of power including everything from leather boots, to metal headwear and stacks of bracelets that appeared to cuff arms with rays of sunshine. Powerful inspiration indeed.

Extra-large chain at Balmain

 

After sending diamante nightbirds dripping in crystal down the runway for Fall/Winter 2013-2014, Balmain creative director Olivier Rousteing dressed the Paris woman daytime with his Spring/Summer 2014 collection. In a nod to this timeless style icon, the designer played with classic combinations including houndstooth and chain, seen here as a belted cardigan and an oversized necklace that at first glance looks to be individual chunky links, but is actually finely woven chain. And that's the Balmain stamp, right there.

Arty cuffs at Céline

 

With surrealist defined eyebrows and Eighties accents, the Céline girls walked out in arty brushstroke prints for Spring/Summer 2014, in the kind of color-pop brights Brassaï and Klein would have loved, right down to Phoebe Philo's wristwear.

Superstar jewelry at Lanvin

 

Wave goodbye to the dark winter months, at Lanvin Spring/Summer 2014, Alber Elbaz played a master of illusion, as the light from his jewelry danced across the pearly, iridescent satins of his collection.

Poison pearls at Dior

 

Raf Simons showed Dior Spring/Summer 2014 under verdant foliage in an impressive set that brought together thousands of flowers to mesmerizing effect. In a further fairytale twist, embroidered slogans like "Alice Garden" called to mind a hyper-real storybook world. Adding to a temptation that was as bewitching as it was toxic, Dior Accessories Design Director Camille Miceli, draped the girls in thick strings of beads that climbed up necks and over shoulders like poison ivy.

Hawaiian earrings at Dsquared²

 

Design twins Dean & Dan Caten opened Milan Fashion Week, welcoming the style set off the airplane from London with reviving cocktails and a dose of summer sunshine in a fantasy trip to Hawaii. The girls walked out in Fifties cat-eye sunglasses, with gold palm fronds swinging at their ears, in a sartorial invitation to summer lazing.

Monocle necklaces at Bottega Veneta

 

As both necklaces and bracelets, the monocle was a stand-out motif at Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2014, recreated as a quartz circle ringed with silver that reflected light back onto the luxe fabrics of Tomas Maier's collection for the Italian label.

Birds of Paradise at Roberto Cavalli

 

On rings, necklaces, sautoirs and bracelet, Roberto Cavalli's birds of paradise spread their wings around the girls' necks and wrists in tone-on-tone color choices that highlighted the iridescent shades in the collection.